The three install methods (and what each costs)
1. Slab-on-grade ($8–$14/sq ft)
PEX tubing tied to rebar/wire mesh, then concrete poured over. Done at the time of new construction or major renovation. Most cost-effective install method.
Best for: new homes, basements, garages, additions. Anywhere there's a fresh concrete pour planned.
For a 1,800 sq ft basement: $14,400–$25,200 installed.
2. Staple-up retrofit ($12–$18/sq ft)
PEX stapled to underside of subfloor between joists, then insulation packed behind. Heats the subfloor; floor finish reaches comfortable temp by conduction.
Best for: existing homes with accessible joist bays from below (open basement ceiling, crawlspace). Requires no demolition of the finished floor above.
For a 1,200 sq ft main floor retrofit: $14,400–$21,600.
3. Panel retrofit ($14–$22/sq ft)
Prefabricated low-profile panels (~3/4" thick) with grooved channels for PEX. Installed over existing subfloor; new floor finish goes over the panels. Adds height but no demolition needed.
Best for: retrofits where access from below isn't possible (slab homes, finished ceiling below). Most expensive method but most flexible.
For a 1,200 sq ft main floor retrofit: $16,800–$26,400.
What a whole-home install actually costs
Most Utah homeowners considering radiant aren't doing the whole house — usually basements, master bathrooms, or main floors. Whole-home install is more common in new construction.
For a typical Utah custom home (3,500 sq ft heated area):
- New construction with slab-on-grade basement + first floor: $32,000–$48,000
- New construction, fully hydronic throughout: $45,000–$68,000
- Retrofit of whole main + second floor: $58,000–$95,000
These include the tubing, manifolds, controls, but NOT the boiler. Boiler size for whole-home radiant: typically a mod-con in the 120,000–200,000 BTU range, add $9,500–$14,500 installed (see replacement cost guide).
Per-room install costs
If you're targeting specific rooms (most common scenario), rough pricing:
- Master bathroom (80–120 sq ft): $1,200–$2,800
- Kitchen (180–250 sq ft): $2,500–$5,500
- Basement (800–2,000 sq ft): $7,000–$28,000
- Garage (600–900 sq ft): $5,500–$14,000
- Outdoor patio (200–400 sq ft): $4,500–$9,500
Smaller rooms often use electric radiant (under-tile heat mat, $4–$8/sq ft installed) instead of hydronic — covered in our heated bathroom floor guide.
Variables that move the cost
Things that push your specific quote LOWER:
- New construction (no demo, fewer obstacles)
- Accessible joist bays for staple-up
- Existing hydronic-capable boiler (no boiler upgrade needed)
- Single open zone vs many small zones
Things that push your quote HIGHER:
- Multiple small zones (each needs its own manifold port and control)
- Hardwood floors (slower temperature response, requires careful design)
- Finished ceiling below the target floor (must use panel method)
- Premium controls (smart thermostats per zone, outdoor reset, etc.)
- Boiler upgrade or tie-in to existing system
What's the comparison vs other systems?
For a typical 2,400 sq ft Utah home heat-only install:
- Forced-air furnace + ductwork (new): $14,000–$22,000
- Heat pump (whole-house): $18,000–$32,000
- Hydronic radiant (whole-house): $32,000–$58,000
Radiant costs 2–3x forced air upfront but delivers significantly better comfort, runs ~15–25% more efficient over the system life, and lasts 25+ years vs 12–18 for forced air equipment. Full comparison in our radiant vs forced air guide.