Seasonal · Updated June 2026

Get your boiler ready for Utah winter.

First frost hits anywhere from late September (Park City) to late October (SLC). Most no-heat calls in November-December stem from issues that could've been caught in October. Here's the checklist.

Time required: ~60 min DIY Schedule pro September First frost Sept-Oct depending on city Skip cost +$120 emergency surcharge

The homeowner checklist (~60 min)

1. Test heat call

Thermostat up 5°F above current room temp. Boiler should fire within 30 seconds. Listen for normal startup — no banging, whistling, unusual sounds. Run 10-15 minutes to verify it reaches temperature.

2. Check system pressure

Cold gauge reads 12-15 PSI. Below = low water/leak. Above 22 PSI cold = expansion tank issue (see pressure guide).

3. Visual inspection

Walk around the boiler. Water on floor, rust streaks, soot near burner, frayed wires, dust accumulation. Clean dust carefully.

4. Bleed radiators (if applicable)

10 min per radiator. See step-by-step.

5. Replace thermostat batteries

Even if seems fine. Dead batteries in January cause a lot of "boiler stopped working" calls that are actually thermostat issues.

6. Test the CO detector

Press test, replace batteries. No CO detector within 15 ft of boiler? Get one — $25.

7. Clear the area

Combustion air needs 3 ft clearance. Air intake / vent terminations free of debris and snow.

What we do during pro maintenance (things you can't DIY)

1. Combustion analysis

O2, CO, stack temp with calibrated analyzer. Verify air-fuel ratio within manufacturer spec. Adjust. Critical for safety (CO production) and efficiency.

2. Flame rod / igniter inspection

Mod-cons especially. Fouled flame rods cause lockouts mid-winter. Annual cleaning prevents this.

3. Heat exchanger inspection

Visual check for scale, corrosion, leaks. Catches issues 1-2 years before they become emergencies.

4. Gas pressure verification

Manometer check of inlet and manifold gas pressures vs manufacturer spec.

5. Expansion tank pre-charge

Verify air pre-charge matches system fill pressure.

6. Condensate trap and neutralizer

Clean trap, replace neutralizer media (~every 2 years).

7. Safety device testing

High-limit, low-water cutoff, PRV — verify each functions under test.

When to schedule pro service

  • September: ideal. Available appointments, lead time, issues from sitting idle surface during first test runs.
  • October: still fine. Some scheduling pressure builds.
  • November: harder to schedule. First-frost emergencies begin.
  • December onward: emergency rates for same-week service. Don't wait this long.

Call us in September. $269-$329, 60-90 minutes. Cheapest insurance against a $400+ emergency in January.

Quick answers

September is ideal. October is fine. By November, scheduling pressure builds and emergency calls eat availability. December onward you'll pay emergency rates for same-week service.
Not recommended. Most failures happen to boilers that 'seem fine' until they suddenly don't. Annual service catches deterioration before it becomes a January emergency.
Skip one year: maybe nothing. Skip three years: likely major repair ($800-$2,500). Skip five years: probable replacement that could've been avoided ($9,500-$14,500). Annual service is $269-$329.
Yes, especially mod-cons. Year-1 service catches install issues. Warranty validity often depends on documented annual maintenance.
Need a real answer?

Skip the guessing. Just call.

Free phone triage. Real techs answer. We'll walk through what's going on and schedule only if it actually needs a visit.

📞Call (801) 685-3976